Sunday, April 1, 2012

Tallahassee, Florida

The Spanish explore Juan Ponce de León first arrived in Florida in 1513. To put this into perspective, only twenty-one years had passed since Columbus's first explorations in the Caribbean, and Cortés wouldn't arrive in Mexico for another six years. Hispanic presence there goes back as far in history as it does almost anywhere in the New World. 

Despite Florida Governor Rick Scott's rather puzzling comments about Florida not needing anthropologists, the state's museums and historical sites are actively preparing for next year's commemoration of 500 years of European contact. It is therefore an exciting time to visit Florida, as I found out on my recent trip to Tallahassee.

Part of the value of visiting in person areas associated with early Spanish exploration is the opportunity to imagine the hardships that they would have faced without modern technology--namely, air conditioning. Inland Florida is characterized by hot sun, humidity, and swamps. A good place to experience these conditions is to visit Wakulla Springs State Park just outside of town. Here you can observe up close and personal the flora and fauna that these strangers from the Mediterranean would have stumbled across and, if they were lucky, lived to write home about. For example, in an hour-long boat tour of the springs, I spotted at least a dozen healthy alligators like this one:


I would hate to have been the first conquistador assigned to fetch water!

Also at Wakulla Springs, there is a tree that is 500 years old. It was exciting to think that Ponce de León or Hernando de Soto may have seen this same tree when it was just a sapling:


Somewhat less imagination is required to see what life was like in Spanish Florida when you visit Mission San Luis, just a few blocks from Florida State University. This state-run site has been restored using the living history model, so don't be surprised if you run across young Spanish maids working on their chores:


There are also, among other things, blacksmith demonstrations:


The purpose of the original mission was to evangelize the native Apalachee population, so a replica of their lodge is a prominent features in the restored mission site:


Next on the tour is a replica of a typical seventeenth-century Spanish colonial home:



Beyond the house is the fort built to protect the mission:




Next is this rustic chapel:



When you're ready for an air conditioning break, there is an indoor museum/visitor's center that includes a movie theater and exhibits on Florida archaeology and colonial art.

The Mission San Luis restoration is apparently a very recent project, although not as recent as the newly completed Forever Changed: La Florida, 1513–1821 at the Museum of Florida History. This excellent  exhibit features a replica of a Spanish ship where visitors can learn about sixteenth-century navigation techniques and other aspects of life aboard:


I was able to see an immense amount of history and culture in just two days in Tallahassee. In order to process, study, and make available this rich heritage to the public, I'd say that Florida definitely needs anthropologists.

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